Having trouble with GT resin pulling back.

[PerfectTouch]

We have been using GT Maxim for 8 months now and have had several repairs "pull back" after a repair. They look great right after the repair, but often after a couple days or a week the outer legs of a starbreak are visible usually for about 1/4" and sometimes the bottom of the repair near the membrane opens up showing silver. We can't pin it down to conditions...indoor, outdoor, drilling, not drilling, cleaning with alcohol...

My wife went to the training in Durango and is doing everything Exactly the way she was taught.

I have been doing repairs for about 8 years previously using an Esprit system and this didn't happen. This is very frustrating as we mainly work on high end expensive cars and our customers expect the highest quality from us.

Any suggestions?

[gt_repair]

Does this happen on all your stars and combo's?

You could be putting to much presure on the injector. Just let it touch the glass and set the levelers just to ballence it out.

Just a thought.

[PerfectTouch]

Yes, it generally happens on those types of breaks. That is a possibility for sure. In training I was taught about looking for the "grey ring" on the seal of the injector, from what you are saying I am going for too "thick" of a ring....I also have had two windshields crack during the repair, this could be because of this as well. I have spoken to Rory a couple of times regarding this.....he believed it could be heat?, drilling to deep (even though I rarely drill,) or customer's use of rain-x. No mention of pressure. I will give this a try, I have 6 to do this week that I have been dreading ! Any other helpful hints? Thank you, Deb

[chipdoctor]

Deb,

We have used Eliminators and GT resin for 10 years and have never experienced the problem that you are describing.

Another possible reason may be resin shrinkage. We always cure under pressure to eliminate any shrinkage problem.

Regards,

Mike Burstein
Dominion Windshield Repair
www.ChipDr.com

[gt_repair]

You may also want to try to use your probe to flex any legs to see how far they really are and to fill them. BE gentle flexing in the heat. Control the temp. "If you can not touch the glass, you can not work the glass"

[PerfectTouch]

In reply to current postings...I do cure under pressure always, I do work the glass, both to flex the break initially to check the break before I start the repair and during the repair to ensure the flow of resin to all parts. The temperature is not much of a factor, we are in Monterey, CA and the temp does not change much, usually between 60 and 75 degrees. At this point I believe the first reply is right on for me. I repaired two combo breaks yesterday and did not put as much pressure when placing the injector and bridge, both were excellent repairs....but the problem happens later, usually a few days to a week later! I will watch, wait, and see. Any helpful hints are much appreciated. Thank you, Debby

[gt_repair]

As
Rory was saying: Check for rainx. Ask the cust. how long the break has been there and if they had cleaned it with anything. If it was rainx'ed after the chip was there I would pass on the repair. I did the same thing once and was scratching my head trying to fugure it out, so I asked and sure enough RAINX.

Have a good day was all I could say at that point.

Just evaluate the customer and the chip

Good luck.

[burnman]

This is very frustrating as we mainly work on high end expensive cars and our customers expect the highest quality from us.


Strange, my customers who own $500 cars expect the highest quality from me.

[Glassguru]

I guess everyone is looking for a great repair. Setting a customers expectation is important in developing long relationships. A repair is still a repair, not a new windshield.